Lettuce Entertain Brings International Cuisine to Chicago

As a native Chicagoan, one of my earliest memories of dining involves hamburgers and the legendary R.J. Grunts, the very first of the now-nationwide Lettuce Entertain You restaurants. My family was introduced to this fun Lincoln Park spot in the '70s by my North Side dwelling and world traveling aunt Sophenia.

Much has changed in all our lives since then. For one, I’ve grabbed the globetrotting baton from my aunt. And although, I still love nothing better than a great burger (and R.J. Grunts still has those), I’ve become a passionate foodie obsessed with international cuisine. Fortunately for us Windy City dwellers—and thanks in grand measure to Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises' dozens Chicago restaurants—it’s easier than ever to travel the globe through our tastebuds without ever leaving town. Starting back in the 1980s, the chain branched out into French cuisine (with now shuttered Ambria), Spanish (Café Ba-Ba-Reeba!) and Italian (Scoozi!, anyone?), and now 80-plus restaurants strong, it hasn’t looked back.

This month, Lettuce Entertain You turns 40 years old—and like any fine wine, it seems to be getting better with age. And the 40th year must be a charm. After six consecutive nominations for the über-prestigious James Beard Foundation “Outstanding Restaurateur” Award, Co-Founder Richard Melman and LEYE finally brought home, this spring, the prize.

So in honor of LEYE’s birthday (we’re almost the same age!), here are brief shout-outs to some of my favorite internationally inspired Lettuce eateries—and in fact, some of my favorite spots in Chicago:

Osteria Via Stato: I admit, I’m a total Italian-food snob. I spent nearly one year living in Florence, Italy, and have made countless visits to bella Italia over the years, and swear by known-by-locals-only spots. But I never cease to be impressed by Executive Chef David DiGregorio’s seasonal and regional cuisine at Osteria. Generally served family-style in its cozy dining room, every dish is full of flavor: from the Crispy Calabrian Potatoes that help start the meal to the 3-meat ragu Pappardelle and Braised Beef Short Rib that are my personal favorites.

Pizzeria Via Stato: Chicago may be the world’s deep-dish pizza king (and as a native South Sider, I love it!), but there’s nothing like a cracker-thin, slightly charred Roman-style crust. And Pizzeria Via Stato does it wonderfully. Back when I had a corporate job, this was one of the places I’d drop in after a long, stressful day for a fabulous glass of Italian vino rosso (the Pizzeria carries 300 different ones) and always the same pizza: house-made sausage, mozzarella, and a perfectly flavored tomato sauce. And when I felt especially decadent, I’d start with the sinfully rich Fonduta, a melted spinach-and-pecorino cheese concoction served with crostini. I’m hungry just thinking about it—and remembering that I need to pay a summer visit to its State Street patio.

Paris Club: One of my new favorites—and a place where I’ve even taken clients—it is the always bustling, very hip property from Melman’s sons, R.J. and Jerrod. Paris is my favorite city in the world, and I never tire of French cuisine. But this is French food with a modern, sometimes irreverent, but delicious twist. I love the small-plates concept, as it gives diners an excuse to sample their way around the menu. I’m always torn between ordering favorite starters and entrees (Croque Monsieur fingers, Lamb Meatballs with Harissa tomato sauce, Short Rib Bourguignonne) and possibly discovering new ones. But with Everest Chef Jean Joho one of the menu’s masterminds, you won’t go wrong either way.

Café Ba-Ba-Reeba!: The last time I dined at this always festive Spanish tapas and paellas spot with a well-traveled group of travel writers and publicists, I asked myself, “Why don’t I come here more often?” Sure, I’m a huge fan of River North’s Café Iberico and its upstairs Pintxos, but Lincoln Park’s Ba-Ba-Reeba! always manages to surprise me with great flavors or inventive twists on Spanish staples, thanks to born in Spain Chef/Owner Gabino Sotelino. Plus, its outdoor patio is the perfect off-Halsted hideaway during warm months.

Mon Ami Gabi: Introduced to this charming spot by a good friend and fellow Francophile just a few years ago, Mon Ami Gabi offers great al fresco dining with a view of Lincoln Park. Its French bistro classics (such as Escargots de Bourgogne and Steak Au Poivre, with hand-cut frites) are first-rate; its seafood (LOVE the Sea Scallops) always wonderfully fresh. I always feel just a little grown up dining here, as it’s housed inside the Belden-Stratford, an historic landmark apartment building that’s an elegant throwback to a civilized age.

And while Eiffel Tower is clear across the country in Las Vegas, it offers one of the classiest places to savor Champagne in Sin City—and certainly one of the most impressive views. Gotta make a pilgrimage to this place (another of Chef/Proprietor Jean Joho's) when you’re in town.

Don’t have an overseas trip planned anytime soon? No worries. Save yourself a trip to O’Hare and the passport office and stop in at a globally themed LEYE spot instead.

Tagged as: restaurant, dining, travel, international cuisine, Paris Club and Osteria Via Stato

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Maureen Jenkins s a food/travel writer and communications professional who's visited more than 30 countries and territories, lived in Florence, Italy -- and is spending the year in Samois-sur-Seine, a charming village near Paris, France. The self-proclaimed “urban travel girl” talks travel, food and wine – abroad and in Chicago – in “TCW Travel Connection.” Read more of her thoughts on living globally at UrbanTravelGirl.com.