Traveling Through Paris and Loire Valley

Find exquisite cuisine, breathtaking sites and wide-ranging culture

Paris
The Eiffel Tower, the tallest building in Paris, is undoubtedly one of the most recognizable iconic structures in the world. Dominating the skyline, the looming tower literally lights up the City of Lights with a spectacular nightly show featuring 20,000 shimmering bulbs. During a recent visit to France, I discovered the Shangri-La Hotel, located across the Seine from the Eiffel Tower at 10 Avenue d’Lena. From every window in my room, there it was, providing a breathtaking bird’s eye view (the photograph, opposite, was taken from my bathroom).

While the Shangri-La is very upscale, it’s so much more than a luxury hotel. The building has quite a history. Built in 1896, it was originally the residence of Napoleon’s grandnephew, Prince Roland Bonaparte. After painstakingly detailed restoration and transformation, the hotel opened in late 2010, with 81 spacious rooms, including 27 suites. Rooms and suites, with the exception of the three Signature Suites that are each themed with their own décor, are elegantly decorated in understated tones of blue, ecru and white. The result is a perfect cultural blend of European and Asian style with the latest technology, such as complimentary Wi-Fi and landline Internet connections. Bathrooms are large, comprised of marble, with heated floors, oversized bathtubs, rainfall showers and flat screen televisions integrated into oversized mirrors above the double sinks.

There are three restaurants, a bar, ballroom and meeting rooms. Breakfast in the casual dining room, La Bauhinia, is conducted under a huge glass cupola. Afternoon tea is also served there; more formal dining is offered at L’Abeille, already recognized for its stellar French gourmet dinners.

As guests enter the hotel’s courtyard through the original iron gates, it’s like stepping into 19th century Parisian society. Décor is rich, but refined. In true ‘Asia meets Paris’ ambiance, high ceilings, natural light, rich wood, refurbished marble, even the historic billiard room complete with fireplace all work in harmony. Statues, hand carved mahogany panels, frescos, crystal chandeliers and enormous floral arrangements add to the elegance.

Then there’s the location. The area has one of the highest concentrations of museums in Europe. Within walking distance are some of the city famous landmarks, including the Tuileries Gardens, Champs-Elysées and the Place de la Concorde, the largest public square in Paris. Outside the back of the hotel one morning, the street was closed off for an open market. Seasonal fruit, bread, apparel and accessories were offered. I picked up a black fascinator complete with netting and faux black dahlias for about $12.

The challenge in Paris is basically one of time management. There’s so much to do. Culture-rich Paris offers internationally acclaimed museums, art galleries, must-see monuments, sleek boutiques and non-stop nightlife. The city is also the world’s capital to both fashion and gastronomy.

In Paris, I like to try neighborhood restaurants and bistros over the typical tourist spots and have never once been disappointed. One evening, we dined at Le Moderne, a café featuring a seasonal menu both classic and contemporary. Hopefully their promotion of wines sold at cost on Monday nights becomes a marketing staple, as it’s a great idea that more restaurants should adopt.

I had to check out Ralph Lauren’s Le Ralph’s – to Paris, what RL is to Chicago – the hip place to see and be seen. While the indoor restaurant holds under 20 guests, it’s the beautiful courtyard that provides the buzz. The walled-in space is large and lush with oversized umbrellas to protect from the elements. Each umbrella has two space heaters affixed to the inside, so the patio can be used almost year-round. American classics such as burgers and meatloaf are offered. Fortunately, weather cooperated the afternoon of our visit, so dining outside couldn’t have been more enjoyable.

One evening, we dined in at L’Abeille, and what a memorable culinary delight! The restaurant’s name translates to ‘the bee,’ considered the oldest emblem of the sovereigns of France and a favorite symbol of Napoleon. The room, adjacent to the hotel garden, is both modern and elegant. Accents of yellow provide a contemporary feel to the overall ambiance. Chef de Cuisine Phillippe Labbé’s tasting menu, using seasonal produce and influenced by both Asian and French cuisine, was extraordinary. We started the evening with Champagne; each of the six courses was then paired with regional wine. The experience began with Spider Crab, followed by Duck Foie Gras from Vendé (the finest I’ve ever tasted), Wild Salmon from Adour, Lamb from Aveyron, a selection of cheeses and a mélange of raspberries. The presentation was a feast for the eyes.

Guests at the Shangri-La, whether for business or pleasure, need to make time to explore the hotel’s architecture and rich history. It will be a most rewarding experience and you’ll carry away an appreciation for the passion that clearly played a role in the hotel’s restoration and transformation.

Resources:
Shangri-La www.shangri-la.com; reservations.slpr@shangri-la.com

Sights and Architecture www.cafemoderne.fr 

French Government Tourist Office www.franceguide.com/us 

Flights www.airfrance.com 



SEASIDE
LOIRE VALLEY
The Atlantic coast of La Baule, France, is a prime vacation destination known for its vast, beautiful beaches. Long stretches of pristine white sand invite exploration and offer a diversity of water sports, so visitors can bike, horseback ride, kayak, kite-surf, jet ski, sail and – oh yes – swim. This area is considered to have the best beaches in Europe. There are also hiking trails, golf (45 holes in three courses), a golf academy, and tennis (24 clay courts, five matco courts).

Overlooking the ocean, the Hotel Hermitage Barriére, is one of five luxury properties in La Baule owned by the French hotel group Lucien Barriére Resorts. Built in 1926, and thoroughly renovated since, the elegant manor is surrounded by lush gardens and features modern amenities, two heated saltwater pools (one indoors, one outside), a piano bar with dance floor, gourmet dining and an excellent seafood restaurant located on the beach.

The Casino de La Baule is down the street. Renovated almost a decade ago, this resort is considered the Lucien Barriére Resorts’ showpiece, due to its size, charm and tradition. Not only does it feature a large casino, but also a theater, cinema, nightclub, bars and restaurants. The grounds are lovely and invite exploration.

While our stay in the area was relatively short, we managed to book Thalasso treatments at the Thalassotherapy Centre at the Royal-Thalasso Barriére, a luxury treatment spa dedicated to wellness. The three-floor facility features a heated seawater pool; saunas; steam rooms; and a variety of therapeutic spa treatments involving seawater and marine minerals designed to recharge, de-stress, detox and basically get your life back on track. The weight loss program is exceptional, attracting both men and women from around the world.

A visit to La Baule isn’t complete without touring the famous Guérande salt marshes by plane. The region is known for its exquisite ‘fleur de sel’ salt, as well as its quality course and fine grain salts. Flying above, you can see the geometrically square ponds that link the marshes with the sea. The salt is harvested by hand using a centuries-old process handed down from generation to generation.

Another place to explore is the medieval city of Guérande, with cobbled narrow streets and charming shops. Within walking distance from Hotel Hermitage Barriére are boutiques that carry casual, not overly expensive resort wear.

One evening we ventured into town for a crepe dinner at Crêperie La Salorge – Saillé, a family-owned restaurant that was obviously a neighborhood hot spot. Switching gears for a formal, gourmet dinner the next evening, we went to Castel Marie-Louise and enjoyed a six-course meal. Featured were Fresh Crab Ravioli in a light crème sauce; Local Chicken with a Champagne sauce and fresh seasonal vegetables; blue cheese and pear, and two desserts – a bittersweet chocolate concoction and fresh picked berries. We finished with a plate of Petit Fours.

The seaside restaurant at the hotel was the perfect place to have lunch. The chef prepared a local fish, sea bass, in a thick Guérande salt crust served tableside. A hammer was used to break the crust, then the fish was deboned. Tender, tasty and expertly served, the experience added another memory to what was a perfect way to launch summer. Tu ne crois pas?*

Resources
Hotel Hermitage Barriére www.hermitage-barriere.com
Lucien Barrière Hotels & Casinos www.lucienbarriere.com
Castel Marie-Louise – La Baule www.castel-marie-louise.com
Aéro-Club de la Côte-d’Amour www.aeroclub-labaule.com
Guérande Office of Tourism www.ot-guerande.fr
Rail Europe www.raileurope.com

*Don’t you agree?

Tagged as: travel, France, Paris and RL Restaurant