Uncommon Israel
Beyond its most famous locales, past and present meet in the most spectacular ways
In Tiberias, Israel, there’s a house where you can be told a story. It starts in 1510, when a girl, Dona Gracia, is born to a Jewish family in Portugal. Over the course of her lifetime, Dona would: marry her uncle at age 18; become a widow; run a hugely successful banking business; become one of the wealthiest women in the world; trick the Queen of Antwerp out of betrothing Ms. Gracia’s 8-year-old daughter to the queen’s 72-year-old cousin; purchase the area of Tiberias from Suleiman the Magnificent to establish a land for Jewish refugees; run one of the first and largest organizations to escort Jewish refugees across Europe to safe havens; and manage her business from inside a jail cell with the help of diamonds sewn into the lining of her voluminous dress.
To hear the story in its entirety, one need only visit the Casa Dona Gracia, a “story hotel and living museum” in Tiberias. Built in a variety of 16th century styles, the hotel is open to visitors and overnight guests alike and is one of the most fascinating history lessons you’ll ever receive. The story is representative of many of the tales you’ll hear while traveling through Israel, and of Israel itself: complex, layered, surprising, and in many cases, still unraveling and largely untold.
Though modern Israel is more likely to draw media attention for its religious clashes than its must-see landmarks, beneath this lies a country with all the trappings of classic tourism destinations – majestic scenery, storied wineries, a rich culture and art scene, myriad historical sites and accommodations to appeal to the most discerning traveler. And if you visit, you won’t be alone: The U.S. clocks in as the number one supplier of tourists to Israel.
A Shopper’s Haven
Those who enjoy cruising the Magnificent Mile for the hottest luxury goods will feel at home in Tel Aviv. Start at Comme il Faut, a fashion and art complex at Tel Aviv Port. The women-owned stores include a café, a women-only spa and more, as well as the Comme il Faut boutique, founded by women, for women, on feminist principles. Feel good about your purchases (they carry high-end Israeli designers as well as European accessories and shoes) knowing that the company practices what they preach on a number of progressive social issues, from environmental sustainability to women’s economic and social empowerment.
HaTachana, in Tel Aviv, is one of the more unique shopping experiences you’ll stumble upon: the area’s first train station, built in 1892, was recently converted into this outdoor shopping complex. High-end and mid-range stores carrying Israeli goods in lush, natural materials make it the perfect spot to purchase a unique piece or stop for a gelato.
In Tel Aviv, take time for a leisurely stroll through pastel-toned Neve Tzedek; the sleepy and architecturally scenic neighborhood’s history dates to 1887. You’ll find plenty of hand-crafted goods – Agas & Tamar, a two-woman team who use a variety of metals in their jewelry designs, deserve a peek – as well as the Suzanne Dellal Center for Dance and Theatre.
In Jerusalem, cosmopolitan shoppers can visit the new outdoor Mamilla Mall, where Israeli fashion designers, Topshop and Chanel mingle together. The center walkway is flanked by artwork from Israeli artists, and the mall’s proximity to the Old City makes for a stunning stroll after sundown.
Art, History & Culture Collide
Boasting the largest museum per capita rate in the world, Israel blurs the line between modern and ancient cultures. Case in point: the Ilana Goor Museum & Gallery in Tel Aviv. Ms. Goor’s sculptures, furniture, paintings and other designs have been displayed worldwide; she counts the likes of Donna Karan as fans. Both Ms. Goor’s and other Israeli artists’ work is showcased in this 250-year-old structure that originally served as a hostel for Jewish pilgrims. Once nearly in ruins, it opened to the public in 1995 after intense renovations by Ms. Goor. The Museum & Gallery’s location in Old Jaffa make it the perfect addition to a day spent browsing the artistic neighborhood’s galleries, flea markets and shops.
Two of the most memorable characters you’ll come across in any world travels are Hadasa and Clila Bau, the daughters of Joseph and Rebecca Bau, whose wedding at the Plaszow Concentration Camp is depicted in “Schindler’s List.” A filmmaker, illustrator and graphic artist, Mr. Bau saved hundreds of Jews by forging documents that allowed them to escape from ghettos and concentration camps. After his death in 2002, his daughters turned his Tel Aviv studio into the Joseph Bau Museum to display his creations and tell their family’s amazing story. Mr. and Mrs. Bau’s indefatigable sense of humor permeates the studio, and the daughter’s passion for their parent’s legacy (they’ve nicknamed the studio the “museum of happiness and love”) means that despite the somber history, you’ll leave with a grin on your face.
The Yad Vashem Holocaust History Museum in Jerusalem is both an architectural accomplishment and historical destination. Designed by world-renowned architect Moshe Safdie, with a $53 million price tag, the new museum was established with the goal of “individualizing the Holocaust.” Because of its unique structure, the museum, and the visitor, become as much a part of the experience as the artifacts themselves. Plan enough time in your visit to tour not only the museum, but also the Museum of Holocaust Art, the world’s most extensive collection of art created during the Holocaust, and the Exhibitions Pavilion, which features rotating special collections.
Discerning Dining & Hospitality
“Israeli cuisine” in modern day Israel is a fluid concept. You’ll find influences from Mediterranean, African and Middle Eastern cultures, from hole-in-the-wall hummus restaurants to upscale, chef-driven dining destinations. From falafel sandwiches to cardamom-spiked “Turkish” coffee, culinary delights abound, with a seemingly endless cornucopia of fresh produce.
Perhaps nowhere is this better exemplified than in Tel Aviv. During the day, stop for fresh sushi at one of the sidewalk sushi bars, such as Japanika (12 Sderot Rothschild); at night, visit a chic destination like Uno (2 Weitzman), a much-buzzed restaurant that prepares Italian fare with fresh Israeli ingredients. Outside of downtown, charming and unique eateries abound, like the famed Dallal bakery and restaurant (www.dallal.info). And don’t miss Dr. Shakshouka, which serves the namesake peppery tomato and sunny-side up egg dish with plenty of cheer thanks to the restaurant’s owner, Bino Gabos, who imported the shakshuka dish from Libya.
In Jerusalem, make a reservation for Hachatzer restaurant (7 Bethlehem Rd.). Located in an old train compound, it serves fresh salads, meats, fish and imaginative desserts (like ice cream with halva, dolce de leche and tahini) under the guidance of a Le Cordon Bleu-trained chef.
Read more >
Gallery
is managing editor and electronic media editor of Today's Chicago Woman. She is active in various local and national women’s groups, including Step Up Women's Network, Rape Victim Advocates and the TCW Foundation, and is a member of The Chicago Council on Global Affairs’ Young Professionals. She writes and speaks about local, national and international women's issues, including in her blog, “Twice As Well."
